Extra-crusty burger

Slice the main muscles out of the chuck and short ribs, leaving the tough sinew behind; keep the marbled fat.

Optional: grind in a meat grinder, or freeze the chopped meat on a sheet tray about 10 minutes until firm at the edges and pulse in a food processor about half a pound at a time.

Chop the meat by hand with a heavy cleaver, about 75% chuck to 25% short rib.

When the fat starts to smear, spread the meat on a sheet tray in a single layer and chill in the freezer about five minutes, then keep chopping.

Scrape up from the bottom with the side of the cleaver and turn the meat over now and then so it chops evenly; leave some bigger pieces for texture.

With a bench scraper, form loose, barely-held, jagged-edged patties on a parchment-lined baking sheet without compressing them; do not salt before forming.

Salt and pepper the exterior of the patty only, just before cooking, flipping it without handling.

Heat a little oil (or rendered beef trimmings) in a pan just big enough for the patties, cast iron, carbon steel or stainless steel, very hot; not non-stick.

Slide in the patty and do not press it; let it sear and fry in its own rendered fat.

Mix special sauce: Kewpie mayo and ketchup three to one, relish, and the tiniest bit of sugar.

Flip carefully; top with thinly sliced onions and a slice of American cheese so the cheese melts into the cracks.

Toast soft white hamburger buns; spread special sauce on top and bottom and add the burger.