Four-hour drum-smoked brisket

Trim the brisket and season it with the spice rub and a 50-50 salt and pepper mix.

Light the charcoal with a couple of post oak chunks, pour the lit coals back into the drum, set the grate and close it to come up to temperature.

Put the brisket on fat side down.

Rotate it about 90 degrees every 30 minutes because the drum has hot spots, until it is time to wrap.

Where the edge of the flat cooks too fast, push a rebar bar through to slow it.

After about three hours, temp it: 172 to 187 in different spots; the plan was to wrap at about 175.

Wrap tightly in aluminum foil with Wagyu beef tallow and return it to the cooker.

After about an hour wrapped, check: 201 to 208 and still a little tight; cook about 10 minutes more until it feels done, about 4 hours 10 minutes in total.

Rest it in a warm place (the truck bed) about 40 minutes, so it comes down from about 210 gently, and slice at the last moment.