Fresh linguine with mussels in white wine sauce, served in the pan

Make fresh egg pasta with one egg per person, optionally an extra yolk, and pizza flour.

Work the flour in with a fork, then knead in about as much flour as the dough will absorb by hand; stop while still slightly sticky for a softer dough to roll by hand.

Cover with a damp towel and rest about 15 minutes, not in the fridge, to hydrate.

Chop the garlic as fine as possible, then grind it with coarse salt using the side of the knife.

Chop the parsley fine; grate the pecorino to a powder on a box grater.

Flour the counter and roll the dough as thin as possible with a rolling pin, flipping frequently to keep it floured.

Fold the sheet and cut into linguine, keeping every surface well floured.

Pour white wine straight into the preheated pan, add the garlic and simmer it in the wine rather than fry it.

Discard any open mussel that does not close when squeezed; add the mussels to the garlicky wine and cover with an upturned bowl to steam a couple of minutes.

Salt the boiling water and cook the linguine, stirring to keep separate, covered to return to the boil.

When the mussels open, add some parsley and plenty of red pepper flakes; add more wine as needed for extra sauce.

Finish the sauce with a tablespoon or two of butter.

Cook the pasta 2 minutes until floating and move it to the pan with tongs, letting some starchy water come with it.

Serve in the pan on a towel or trivet, topped with more parsley, red pepper flakes and a lot of pecorino.