Frozen tofu, prepared for cooking (silken simmered in broth; firm pressed and pan- or air-fried)

Freeze the silken and firm tofu in their packaging.

Thaw; setting the packages in water thaws them faster.

Cut the tube of silken tofu through the middle, slide it out, and let the excess water pour out onto a towel.

Cut the silken tofu into pieces gently; it is still delicate.

Add it to a brothy soup or saucy stew at the end, after the seasonings, and simmer just a few minutes so it heats through and absorbs the flavour.

For firm tofu: press gently to remove the bulk of the water without destroying it.

Cut into pieces slightly bigger than wanted, since they shrink. Lay on a thick kitchen towel, cover with another, and press gently to dry further; drier tofu browns better.

Pan-fry over high heat a few minutes on each of all four sides for a crust and colour.

Or air fry: brush a plate generously with oil, set the tofu on it, brush the tops with oil, space the pieces in the basket, and air fry at 400F about 12 minutes, turning or shaking halfway.

Variation: toss the freshly fried tofu in sweet chili lime sauce until well coated, without overdoing it, since the sauce is intense.

Variation: add the fried tofu at the very end of a stir-fry (pad prik king, a red curry paste stir-fry, here with green beans) and toss a minute or two to heat through and absorb the sauce.

Variation: simmer the fried tofu in a sauce or stew (kai palo, a five-spice stew with eggs and pork belly) so the holes soak up the flavour.