Green chile cheeseburger

Use about 8 oz ground beef, 80% lean, 20% fat, with no salt mixed in; salt dissolves proteins that cross-link and make the patty tight and rubbery.

Form loosely with very little kneading: roll into a ball, set on a plate or cutting board and gently shape it a little wider than the bun, as it shrinks while cooking.

Press a slight dimple toward the center so the patty ends up flat when the edges contract and cinch up.

Roast the chilies over a very high burner, turning with tongs, until blackened and blistered on all surfaces; stand them up to reach the last spots. Skin that is not blistered will not peel.

Put the burger on the griddle while the chilies finish.

Cover the blistered chilies so they steam; the steam helps the skin separate from the flesh.

Flip the burger a couple of times as it cooks.

Toast the bun. Peel the skins off the chilies by hand, without rinsing under water, which washes away the smoky flavor from the charred skin.

variation: for a wet dish such as a braised chili, peel the chilies in a bowl of water or stock, then strain; the skins infuse the liquid with smokiness.

Cut the chilies into strips and lay them on the burger, then a slice of Swiss and a slice of pepper jack on top; close the lid a moment to melt the cheese.

Serve on the toasted bun.