Green chile chicken tamales, central style, steamed in corn husks

In a stand mixer, beat the room-temperature lard until it lightens in color; add the baking powder and salt. If the kitchen is hot, chill the fat briefly so it can take in air.

On slow speed, add the masa in three additions, mixing well after each.

Pour in about a cup of chicken broth in a very thin stream until it looks like a thick, fluffy cake batter that falls off the beater; beat another minute.

Test: drop about half a teaspoon of the batter into ice water. If it floats, it is beaten enough.

Stem the serranos and put them with the tomatillos and unpeeled garlic on a rimmed baking sheet (foil-lined if wanted). Roast about four inches under a preheated broiler about six minutes until blotchy black, flip and roast about six minutes more, pulling the chiles or garlic early if needed.

Peel the garlic. Pulse everything with the baking-sheet juices in a food processor, leaving some texture; do not cook it.

Coarsely shred the cooked chicken and mix into the salsa. Slice the cilantro crosswise, stems and all, and add with about half a teaspoon of salt.

Soak the corn husks in hot tap water about two hours (or overnight) until pliable. Choose a dozen large, untorn husks; line the bottom of the steamer, over the water, with the small ones in a star pattern.

Lay a husk with the cut end toward you, scoop about a quarter cup of masa batter onto it and spread a roughly four-inch square, leaving about half an inch at the end.

Spoon filling down the center, roll the husk sides so the masa covers it, roll the husk around and fold the empty end under; squeeze the bottom tight.

Variation: fold both ends under and tie with strands of corn husk, not too tight, since the baking powder makes them expand.

Stand the tamales upright in the steamer, filling gaps with balls of foil so none slip down. Drop a coin in the water.

Cover, bring to a boil over high heat, then regulate to a steady steam and steam about an hour, adding hot water if the coin stops rattling.

Test one: it is done when the masa no longer sticks to the husk. Optionally turn off the heat and let them stand 15 to 20 minutes to firm.