Grill-roasted whole fish in red chile adobo

Heat oil in a skillet. Pull the stems off the dried ancho chilies, tear them open and shake out the seeds; pull out the veins if wanted.

Toast the chilies in the oil one at a time a few seconds per side, until they blister and change color slightly.

Put them in a bowl with the hot tap water, weight with a plate to keep them submerged, and rehydrate about 20 minutes.

Put the chilies and their soaking liquid in a blender with the garlic, salt, cider vinegar, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper and brown sugar; blend until completely smooth.

Pour through a medium mesh strainer to remove stray seeds and bits of skin.

Cut three slits in each side of the fish, down to the backbone, so the heat penetrates evenly and the marinade gets into the flesh.

Pour adobo over the fish and daub it on with a brush, into the slits too. Refrigerate.

Turn off one side of the grill to make a cool place.

Make a sling of non-stick foil and slide the fish onto the grill on it.

Grill about five minutes, then baste with more marinade and flip the fish by rolling it on the foil.

Serve with limes alongside.