Grilled chicken teriyaki skewers with miso ranch

Soak bamboo skewers in water so they burn less on the grill.

Cut boneless skinless chicken thighs into roughly equal chunks, three or four per thigh; trim cartilage or connective tissue but keep the fat.

Add soy sauce, sake, mirin, grated ginger, minced green onions, brown sugar and a splash of vegetable oil; massage by hand until the sugar dissolves.

Cover and refrigerate two to six hours; about four is ideal.

For the miso ranch, whisk mayonnaise, sour cream or yogurt, a splash of buttermilk, a big spoon of miso, minced green onion, one clove crushed garlic, chopped tarragon, dill and chive, black pepper and cayenne; salt is probably not needed. Refrigerate.

Thread three pieces on each skewer, messier pieces in the middle.

Strain the leftover marinade into a saucepan and bring to a boil so it is safe to use as a glaze.

Grill over hot, ashy charcoal four to five minutes per side until just cooked through and springy, basting a couple of times with the boiled marinade; about 10 minutes in all.

Drizzle and brush with the boiled marinade, sprinkle with toasted sesame seed, and serve with the miso ranch.