Grilled pizza

Combine the warm water, instant yeast, salt, sugar, olive oil and bread flour in a stand mixer and mix on medium speed for eight minutes.

The dough should be well combined and clearing the bowl, with no tearing when tugged.

Divide into four 275 gram pieces. Shape each by pressing down, pulling out and folding over each side, rolling over the top and flipping onto the seams, then rolling to build tension with the fingertips tucking underneath.

Put the dough balls on a lightly oiled sheet tray, cover with a lid or plastic wrap and ferment at room temperature 30 minutes.

Move to the fridge and ferment as little as eight but preferably 24 hours.

Pull the dough 90 minutes before cooking to proof further and come to room temperature.

About 30 minutes before cooking, set the grill up with three zones, low on the left, medium in the middle, high on the right, with the overall grill about 450F.

The bottom of the pizza takes about 75% of the heat, so always drop the pizza on the low side so it does not burn.

Grate the fresh mozzarella on a box grater; it is too soft to grate properly and will come out crumbled.

Stir the crushed tomato, tomato paste, salt and sugar together into a thick no-cook sauce, without pureeing, to keep a coarse texture.

Lift a well-floured dough ball onto a well-floured cutting board with a dough scraper and dust the top generously.

Flatten the ball with the flat of your hand to pop large bubbles, then roll it out with a rolling pin to a 10 to 12 inch round.

Move the dough onto a peel doused with fine semolina flour.

Spread the thick sauce close to the edge, but not over, or the grill will flare and prematurely char the crust.

Top with the crumbled fresh mozzarella and the basil leaves, oil each leaf, and finish with a strong pinch of flaky salt.

Shimmy the pizza on the peel to check it is loose, adding more semolina if needed.

Spray the cooler side of the grill liberally with olive oil pan spray and load the pizza on, keeping it round.

Close the lid and check the bottom after two minutes, then rotate 90 degrees and cook another three to four minutes, lid down.

After about six to seven minutes total the bottom is charred and full of grill marks but not burnt; the cheese will not take much browning.

Variation, cherry tomato pizza: top a stretched skin with shredded mozzarella and 12 to 14 small cubes of fresh mozzarella, keeping the chunks small so they melt.

Variation: toss about a half pint of cherry tomatoes with salt, olive oil and black pepper and cook on the hot side of the grill two to three minutes until blistered and barely softened, not mushy.

Variation: add the roasted tomatoes, a dozen basil leaves, grated Parmesan, chili flake, dried oregano, sliced garlic marinated in olive oil with its oil, and flaky salt, then grill seven to eight minutes and finish with black pepper.

Variation, broccolini pizza: toss broccolini with salt, cracked pepper and olive oil and char it on a ripping hot grill three to four minutes, to about 65 to 75% done.

Move the broccolini into a bowl and cover with a lid for five minutes to steam and carry over gently, then slice into small chunks.

Variation: top with aged mozzarella and grated fresh mozzarella, the grilled broccolini spread edge to edge, chopped anchovies, at least 25 slices of the marinated garlic with its oil, and chopped Calabrian chilies.

Grill seven to eight minutes until the bottom is grilled and the top is melty.