Guiyang-style chili sticky rice bowl (nuomifan)

Rinse the glutinous rice four or five times, until the water loses about half its opacity.

Cover with water an inch over the rice and soak overnight in the fridge.

Variation: cook the rice in a rice cooker on the white rice setting with water to the brown rice line instead of steaming.

Lay a thoroughly wetted steaming cloth on the steaming tray, add the soaked rice and poke a few holes in it with your fingers.

Steam over a pot of bubbling water on high for 10 minutes.

Splash about a pint of cool water over the rice to stop the surface drying, then steam 15 minutes more.

Remove the rice and wash the cloth immediately.

Over medium-low, melt the lard and heat to the first wisps of smoke, about 170C, then shut off the heat.

Add the salt and soy sauce and fry together about half a minute.

Add the steamed rice and mix thoroughly until the seasoning is roughly marbled throughout.

Finely dice the pickled daikon; slice the scallion; halve the roasted peanuts.

Put three big spoonfuls of the rice in a bowl and top with the chili crisp, sugar, fishwort or cilantro, pickles, scallion, peanuts and cracklins or bacon bits.