Gyudon (beef rice bowl) with quick dashi

For a quick dashi, put a piece of kombu in a little water and bring to a simmer; as soon as it simmers add katsuobushi, turn off the heat and steep like tea about five minutes without boiling, which clouds it and draws out bitterness. (For the best dashi, soak the kombu in cold water half an hour to a couple of hours first.)

Slice the onion between an eighth and a quarter inch thick. Slice a couple of scallions for garnish.

Slice the ginger into coins (peel only if the skin is leathery), smash them flat with the knife and chop briefly.

Strain the dashi.

In a wok, combine the onions and ginger with about a cup of dashi, about a quarter cup of mirin, sake, a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce and a little sugar; simmer until the onions are a little soft but still have bite. Do not brown the onions.

Add the shaved beef and stir; it is done as soon as it is cooked through. Simmer either under five minutes or about 20 to 25 minutes to tenderize; in between it is at its toughest.

Spoon the meat, onions and juice over rice; garnish with beni shoga and togarashi.