Hand-rolled fresh tagliatelle with mushroom cream sauce

On the counter, make a well in the flour, crack in the eggs, add the salt.

Beat the eggs with a fork and work them into the flour, then knead by hand, dusting on more flour when sticky, for about eight minutes until smooth, elastic and hardly sticky.

Use the dough ball to scrub stuck flakes of dough off the counter.

Cover with a damp towel and rest at least 15 minutes.

Peel and chop the garlic; trim woody stem ends off the mushrooms and slice, not too thin.

Bring a little pot of water with a pinch of salt to a boil on high heat.

Heat the carbon steel pan over medium-high with a good coating of olive oil; add the mushrooms and stir continuously until a brown crust builds and water comes out, then leave them while the pasta is rolled.

Flour the counter with a big handful and roll the dough as thin as possible with a rolling pin, rolling and turning or flipping.

Flour well, fold up a few times and cut with a sawing motion into tagliatelle-width noodles; toss in flour and cook within a few minutes.

Add the garlic to the mushrooms and cook for a minute, then deglaze with scotch whiskey.

Add just enough cream to cover the mushrooms, simmer and season conservatively; drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook about two minutes until swollen and buoyant, slightly undercooked.

Add the pasta to the sauce without draining thoroughly so pasta water goes in; toss to combine and loosen with more scotch, water or cream, since the sauce thickens as it cools.

Stir in a big handful of arugula to wilt; taste for salt and serve.