Jingpo rice balls (raw minced beef and herbs cooked by hot rice)

Finely mince all the herbs and set aside.

Toast the coriander seeds in a dry wok on medium-low until slightly darkened and fragrant; remove.

Toast the dou chi bing the same way, breaking it up with the spatula, until slightly darkened with tiny blisters; remove.

Pound to a powder, coriander seed first and then the dou chi bing, so they do not clump.

Hand mince the beef loin patiently until very pasty.

Cook the rice with a little less water than usual.

Mix the seasonings into the beef by hand, then the pounded coriander and dou chi bing, then the toasted chili powder, then the minced garlic, ginger and chili, then all five herbs.

Fluff the scalding hot rice and add a third of it, press it onto the beef with a spatula and fold until little white rice shows; repeat with the second and last thirds.

Once cool enough to handle, cup about 70 g at a time in the palms with gentle force until firm and the greens no longer fall off.

variation: for a Western supermarket version use 30 g cilantro, sweet basil instead of Thai basil, and 15 g dill.

variation: use the leanest ground beef, or sear a hunk of beef on all sides in a very hot pan, slice off the seared outside (it goes in too) and hand mince the rest; adjust the seasoning for the missing fermented soybean.