Korean-style short ribs (kalbi), water-started and pan-glazed, with greens and rice

Wash the short ribs in a bowl of water and soak at least half an hour.

Butterfly English-cut ribs: cut down along the bone, stopping short of going through, then one more cut to halve the remaining meat, and open like a book.

Cover with plastic and pound the thick hinges with a meat mallet.

Score very shallow cuts, perpendicular on opposite sides so they do not line up.

For the marinade, smash and peel a few garlic cloves, shave the peel off a thumb of ginger, and add green onion whites and a peeled, cored pear to a food processor.

Add about 1/2 cup soy sauce, about 2 tbsp demerara sugar, rice vinegar and ground pepper; blitz and taste. It should taste too strong; add a little more sugar carefully, since sugar burns.

Add a little water and a few drops of toasted sesame oil.

Combine with about 3 lb short ribs, cover and refrigerate overnight.

Wipe the marinade off the meat thoroughly so surface marinade does not burn.

Put the meat in the widest pan with no oil, add water halfway up, and boil on high, flipping once or twice, as the fat renders.

When most of the water is gone, turn the heat way down; over medium-low, fry gently in the rendered fat, flipping constantly, until the juices and marinade form a glaze. Remove.

Add chopped shallots and a big pile of rainbow chard to the pan with some leftover marinade; stir constantly until wilted.

Cook washed jasmine rice with 1.5 parts water to 1 part rice and 1/2 tsp salt per cup of rice: boil, cover, and hold on warm.

Serve the ribs whole, cut between bones, or sliced thin, with chard and rice.

Garnish with sesame seeds toasted in a dry pan over moderate heat until brown and nutty, and green onion tops sliced at a steep angle.