Lau chingri (bottle gourd with prawns)

Cut the bottle gourd into pieces rather than thin matchsticks so it holds its shape. Grate the ginger. Keep the coriander stalks for frying.

Put the bottle gourd in an empty pan with a tablespoon of water, cover, and steam on low heat in its own juices until tender.

Marinate the prawns with turmeric powder, red chilli powder and a little oil; set aside.

When the gourd is tender, raise the heat to dry off the remaining water; take it off the heat.

Heat oil in a wok on medium-high; lower the heat and add the bay leaf, cinnamon stick, cardamoms and cloves, stirring a second for aroma.

Add the cumin seeds and let them splutter.

Add the prawns in a single layer over medium-high heat, sprinkle salt, and leave unstirred for a minute to sear deep brown; then stir.

Add the grated ginger, the coriander stalks, the steamed bottle gourd, turmeric, red chili powder, salt, optional whole green chilies and a little sugar.

Stir a few minutes to bring it together; prawns this size take at most 6 to 8 minutes in all, and turn rubbery if overcooked.

Warm about a teaspoon of ghee in a small pan over medium heat only until the hand above it feels a little warmth; take it off the heat, add the garam masala, and pour into the curry. Too-hot ghee burns the garam masala.

Finish with roughly chopped coriander leaves; serve with hot steamed rice.