Lemon roll cake

Fill a saucepan a third of the way with water and bring it to steaming hot over medium-high heat.

Whisk six eggs with 340 g of sugar.

Zest four medium lemons, about four tablespoons of zest, taking only the shiny yellow part.

Set the egg and sugar bowl over the steaming water. Cooking the curd directly in the pan would scramble the eggs.

Juice the lemons for half a cup of lemon juice.

Add all the zest and the juice to the bowl and cook over the water bath, stirring constantly, for about eight to ten minutes or until it thickens, looks opaque and has the consistency of whipped cream.

Off the heat, whisk in 113 g of cubed butter until melted, then put plastic over it and let it cool completely.

Reserve what the cake needs and freeze the rest in little containers; it keeps for months.

For the pastry cream put two cups of whole milk and half of the three quarters of a cup of sugar in a pan over medium heat until steaming hot.

Whisk two yolks, two whole eggs, the remaining sugar, four tablespoons of cornstarch and a quarter cup of heavy whipping cream together.

Transfer the hot milk into the egg mixture, whisking it in slowly to raise the temperature of the eggs gradually, then transfer it all back into the pot.

Cook over medium heat until nice and thick, then remove from the heat at once because it keeps thickening.

Whisk in two teaspoons of pure vanilla extract.

Pass it through a strainer into another bowl to catch any hardened bits, cover it with plastic wrap on the surface so no skin forms, and cool completely.

If it has thickened too much on sitting, pass it through a mixer or whisk it well, and stir in a couple of tablespoons to a quarter cup more heavy whipping cream to lighten it.

For the sponge whip five room temperature eggs with 165 g granulated sugar, a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of pure vanilla extract on high speed about five minutes, until fluffy and tripled in volume.

Mix three quarters of a cup of flour with one teaspoon of baking powder and the zest of a whole lemon, and add it to the eggs a little at a time with the mixer on low speed.

Line a half sheet baking tray with parchment paper and grease it with baking spray, butter or vegetable oil.

Spread the batter evenly and bake at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 13 to 15 minutes, until golden and springy in the centre.

As soon as it comes out, run a knife around the edges and dust the top with powdered sugar.

Put a towel on top and another half sheet pan on the towel, flip the cake over and peel off the parchment paper, then dust the other side with confectioner's sugar so it does not stick to the towel.

Roll the cake up while it is warm so it creates memory and keeps the shape, then set it aside to cool completely.

For the lemon simple syrup mix one cup of water, half a cup of granulated sugar and about a quarter to half a cup of freshly squeezed lemon juice in a small saucepan and bring it to a boil until the sugar is dissolved, then cool.

Whip three quarters of a cup of heavy whipping cream, sweetening it with cool lemon curd instead of confectioner's sugar, two tablespoons at a time, until fluffy and thick.

Taste and add more lemon curd if wanted; another two tablespoons here.

Transfer the whipped cream into a pastry bag fitted with a large tip.

Unroll the cooled cake and brush some of the lemon syrup over it. This is optional but makes the cake very moist.

Spread a thin first layer of lemon curd, a quarter to a third of a cup.

Whip the chilled pastry cream smooth with a spoon, or back in the mixer if it is thicker, and spread it over the curd. A double batch gives more filling.

Using the towel to help, roll the cake up and roll it carefully onto the serving platter.

Slice the ends off with a serrated knife for a prettier presentation.

Brush the top once more with the simple syrup to get it nice and soft.

Pipe big rosettes over the top and finish with lemon slices or berries.

Chill at least one to two hours so the flavours come together; it tastes best chilled.