Liangpi, Xi'an cold skinned noodles

Overview: make a 60% hydration dough, autolyse, knead, rest, wash the gluten until the water runs clear, ferment the gluten with yeast, let the starch water set 3 to 4 hours, steam the gluten and the liangpi, then cut, season and serve.

Mix the AP flour, salt and water into a blob, cover and autolyse 20 minutes to let the gluten develop.

Knead by pressing down and folding up until the dough is uniform, then cover and rest another 20 minutes.

Wash the gluten: add about half a cup of water at a time and knead the dough in the water so the gluten stays intact; when the water turns thick and milky reserve it through a strainer and add more water. Repeat until the water runs nearly clear, about four cups in total.

Let the starch water set 3 to 4 hours without stirring. Too short and the batter is thin and the liangpi soggy; too long and the batter is thick and the liangpi dry and easy to break.

Work an eighth teaspoon of yeast into the washed gluten with the same knead and fold for a minute or two, cover and let it ferment.

For the chili oil, heat the wok, add the rapeseed oil and heat until light bubbles form around a pair of chopsticks.

Fry the sliced onion, smashed ginger and garlic three minutes on medium, add the star anise and fennel seeds and fry about five minutes more until the onions are golden brown, then strain everything out.

Put the chili powder in a heatproof bowl, reheat the oil to 180 degrees, pour it over and mix quickly.

Mix in half a teaspoon of Chinese dark vinegar.

Dilute the toasted sesame paste with water a teaspoon at a time, letting each be absorbed, to 5 tsp in total.

Pound the peeled garlic with half a teaspoon of salt in a mortar to a paste, then mix in four tablespoons of water.

Set up for steaming: a big wok of water, an oiled flat plate, a spatula, a brush, tongs, a small bowl of oil and a container of cool water.

Pour the clear water off the top of the settled starch water, keeping the starch at the bottom; stir the remainder well to a homogenous batter.

Brush the plate generously with oil and pour in just enough batter to cover the bottom, about 90 ml for a 24 cm sheet; jiggle it even.

Set the plate directly on heavily boiling water, cover and steam one and a half minutes; it is done when big bubbles form.

Cool the plate on cool water, brush oil over the liangpi, loosen the edge with a spatula or chopstick and peel the sheet off. Repeat with the rest of the batter.

Per serving: cut half the gluten into half inch pieces, fold half the liangpi in three and cut into 2 cm strips, loosen and put in a bowl.

Top with the gluten, add the garlic water, sesame paste and julienned cucumber.

Add salt, MSG, chili oil and dark vinegar, and top with cilantro.