Mapo tofu

Heat the vegetable oil in a small saucepan and gently toast and fry the dried chilies and Sichuan peppercorns until aromatic and bright red, not burnt; too high a heat burns them instantly. Set aside in a bowl.

Thinly slice the ginger into shreds and thinly slice the scallions for garnish. Cut the firm tofu into roughly three-quarter-inch cubes.

Crush the fried chilies and peppercorns with the back of the cleaver, then chop into a fine toasted chili and peppercorn powder.

Rinse the short grain rice three to four times until the water runs basically clear, add water to about half an inch above the rice and cook in a rice cooker.

Bring salted water to a boil in the wok and blanch the tofu cubes about two minutes to set their shape; drain.

Heat about half a cup of oil in the wok over very high heat and stir-fry the beef into small bits with some browning and crispy edges.

Add the chopped pickled chilies, the ginger, the fermented black beans and the doubanjiang; stir-fry together.

Add about four heaping tablespoons of the chili peppercorn powder, saving some for the end, and a little more oil; fry until the oil turns red.

Add two cups of water, season with salt, sugar and MSG in equal parts, and add the tofu. Taste and adjust.

Simmer over medium-low heat, not a roiling boil that would break the tofu, about three to four minutes.

Mix a slurry of equal parts cornstarch and cold water and add it in three additions, each thicker than the last, mixing gently so the tofu does not break, until the sauce tightens.

Plate, top with more chili peppercorn powder and the scallions, and serve with the steamed rice.