Nihari (braised lamb shank and beef osso buco in spiced gravy)

Set the lamb shank and osso buco on a wire rack, salt the exterior and refrigerate uncovered to dry brine at least two hours, up to a day or more.

Toast the cumin seeds, fennel seeds, coriander seed, cloves, cinnamon stick and green and black cardamom pods in a pan until fragrant.

Transfer to a mortar and pestle, remove the cardamom husks and grind to a fine powder; add the red chili powder and grate in nutmeg.

Grate the garlic and ginger and thinly slice the onion.

Heat about two tablespoons of ghee or neutral oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high and brown the meat on all sides; set aside on the wire rack.

Turn the heat to low, add the garlic, ginger, onion, three bay leaves, two tablespoons of nihari masala and a spoonful of turmeric and saute about 30 seconds without burning.

Stir in a spoonful of plain yogurt and return the meat to coat it.

Add water three quarters of the way up the meat, set the lid partly ajar, and braise in a 250F oven for about four to five hours, flipping the meat once or twice.

Variation: while it braises, cook naan or roti from an all-purpose dough on cast iron until a little crisp.

At about four and a half hours test with a fork: the meat should break apart easily but hold its shape. Stir the osso buco marrow into the sauce and remove the meat to a plate.

Remove the separated fat layer to a glass or bowl to reheat for serving.

Stir 30 g wheat flour with 100 g water, pour into the sauce over medium heat and bubble until thickened to taste.

Julienne ginger, slice green chilies, chop cilantro and cut limes.

Serve a spoonful of gravy with a piece of lamb shank in the center, spoon over hot oil, and garnish with ginger, cilantro and chilies; eat with naan, roti or rice.