Offset-smoked brisket (four at once)

Trim the briskets; season with a layer of salt and pepper, then a layer of brisket rub.

Load all four lengthwise, side by side.

Smoke with oak at 200 for the first two hours without peeking.

Raise to 225 for the next two hours, then 250; later run between 250 and 275 to render the fat and push through the stall.

Wrap when the internal temperature is in the mid 180s and the bark is set and the fat rendered (this one read about 183).

Wrap in butcher paper with a little tallow; set the flats toward the back of the cook chamber so they catch up with the points; cook to about 203 internal, until tender.

Rest until it drops to 155, then hold in the warmer overnight; slice the next morning.