Offset-smoked brisket started on a cold smoker overnight

Trim the brisket and season with salt and pepper.

Put the brisket on a cold offset smoker with no fire in it.

Put in about a third of a bag of match light charcoal, then stack about eight wood splits, 10 to 12 inches long and about two inches thick, on top with no gaps, like a pyramid.

Light it and leave open for about five minutes until the first logs are lit, keeping it a small fire.

Close the stack damper about 60 percent; close the firebox door to the furthest notch, then one notch in after about two minutes, for a small flame that holds all night.

Leave it eight hours to smoke on its own.

In the morning add splits, cook at about 275 degrees until the brisket reaches an internal 175 or so, then wrap in butcher paper with tallow, take to tenderness and rest.

Variation: on the second attempt, stay with the fire and micro-adjust the damper and door to hold the smoker between 180 and 200 degrees with a small open flame throughout, for about eight hours until the starting fuel is exhausted.

Variation: then run a regular cook, unwrapped, to an internal 180 to 185 degrees, wrap, take to tenderness and rest overnight.

Variation: a foil boat with tallow used instead of the paper wrap, for a little less smoke.

Slice.