Old-school beef holy basil stir-fry (pad kaprao nua) with a crispy Thai-style fried egg and prik nam pla

Pound the Thai chilies into a fine paste with no big chunks; skins are fine.

Add lots of garlic and the milder chilies and pound to a rough paste: the stir-fry base.

Heat the wok until it smokes, add the beef and spread it to sear and brown; toss, re-spread and let it sear again.

When the beef releases liquid, keep cooking, stirring occasionally, until the water evaporates and the sound changes from simmering to sizzling; then stir less so it can sear again.

Turn the heat down, push the beef to one side, add a little more oil and saute the garlic-chili paste, adding oil as needed.

Turn the heat back up and mix the beef with the paste; add some water (or unsalted stock) for sauce.

Season with fish sauce and a little sugar; cook until the sauce consistency is right.

Add the julienned mild peppers, turn the heat off and add all the basil; let residual heat wilt it.

Heat about a quarter inch of oil in a pan; test with a bit of garlic, which should bubble excitedly.

Fry the egg white on its own and puncture any big bubble; when the white browns at the edges, drop the yolk into the hole and spoon hot oil around its edges to seal. Remove with the yolk still runny.

Plate the stir-fry with jasmine rice and set the egg on top.

For prik nam pla, pour a little fish sauce over chopped chilies and add a squeeze of lime; spoon it over the egg.