One-pan orange chicken with broccoli

Put a film of water in a hot 12-inch pan, add the broccoli and cover loosely; steam about five minutes until barely fork-tender, without letting the water run out.

Dump into a bowl and shock under cold running water; leave the florets in the water.

Cut the chicken thighs into big chunks, season with salt and coat in cornstarch until no longer wet or sticky.

Heat a generous film of avocado oil in the very hot pan and drop the chicken pieces in by hand; let a crust form, then nudge rather than scrape.

Stir-fry the chicken, knocking it around; meanwhile peel and roughly chop the garlic and ginger, and zest the orange onto a piece of foil away from the raw chicken.

After about eight minutes, with a crispy crust on the chicken, add the garlic and ginger and cook a minute to soften.

Deglaze with soy sauce and rice vinegar, squeeze in the orange juice and add the sugar; stir.

When the pan looks dry, add the broccoli with its clinging water to cool the pan before the sugar burns; stir and taste.

Add more soy sauce and vinegar; scatter cornstarch over the solids and stir promptly and aggressively to thicken without lumps.

Add chili flakes and the orange zest without stirring; turn off the heat and do a final stir just before plating.

If dry once the sauce has cooled and tightened, add more soy sauce.