Red chile pork tamales steamed in corn husks

Cover the dry corn husks with water and soak until very pliable, a couple of hours to overnight.

Put a couple of inches of water in the bottom of the tamal steamer, up to the indented line that supports the rack.

Stem the guajillos, tear them open, remove most of the seeds and tear into smaller pieces. Do not toast them.

Put the chilies in the blender with 4 cloves garlic.

Grind black pepper and cumin in the molcajete and add to the blender.

Add 1 teaspoon salt and about 3 of the 6 cups water and blend until completely smooth.

Strain through a medium mesh strainer into the pot, pressing through with a spatula; discard the skins.

Add the remaining water and the pork shoulder cut in about half inch pieces, fat left on.

Simmer over medium heat until the meat is tender and the sauce reduced thick enough to hold its shape in a spoon, an hour to an hour and a quarter.

Season with a little more salt to just a touch salty, then cool completely.

Beat the lard in the mixer with the paddle with 2 teaspoons salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder until light and fluffy, about a minute.

Add the masa in thirds, mixing each in on low speed.

Beat in broth, about a cup first, then a little at a time until it is like cake batter; beat a couple of minutes to get in as much air as possible.

Test: drop about half a teaspoon of batter into ice water; if it floats, enough air is beaten in.

Choose about 24 of the largest husks; pull ties from the rejects about a quarter inch wide and line the steamer rack with more rejects so the holes are covered.

Spread a quarter cup of batter into about a four by four inch square on the wide end of a husk, leaving about half an inch at the edge and space at the sides.

Add about 1 1/2 tablespoons filling down the middle, bring the sides together to encase it, roll, fold the end under and tie with a husk tie.

Stand the tamales up in the steamer; fill any gap with an upturned bowl and loosely crumpled foil so they stay upright, not packed tightly so they can grow.

Cover and set over high heat until steam puffs out, then reduce to a gentle steam for an hour to an hour and a quarter; add hot water down the side if it runs dry.

Check one: unwrapped, it should come away from the husk easily; if it sticks, rewrap and steam 10 to 15 minutes more.

Serve from the steamer or a deep vessel, refilling with hot ones.