Risotto (with homemade Parmesan-rind stock), tested seven ways

For the stock, heat about two tablespoons oil in the pot and saute the chopped vegetables and garlic, cut side down, lightly three to four minutes for a little browning.

Fill with water three quarters of the way, add four to five Parmesan rinds, a few peppercorns and parsley, submerged.

Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook about two hours.

Finely dice the onion and weigh out per batch 1.5 oz onion, 3.5 oz rice, a quarter cup dry white wine, three quarters of an ounce grated cheese and one tablespoon butter.

Heat three tablespoons oil over medium; cook the onion until a little translucent.

Add the rice and toast it, about two minutes, then add the wine.

Variation, no stir: pour all the stock in at once and leave it. Variation, semi-stir: stir only some of the time. Result: no-stir finished first with separate grains and a thin, oily-looking sauce; constant stirring gave a much creamier, thicker sauce.

Add hot stock half a cup at a time, stirring constantly but gently, adding more as it is absorbed.

Off the heat, stir in the butter and cheese and season with salt and pepper.

Variation, cold stock against hot stock: the hot-stock batch cooked faster, finishing about 20 seconds sooner; tasters could barely tell them apart.

Turn off the heat when almost ready since it keeps cooking; it should melt out to the sides when dolloped on a plate, not hold its form.

Variation, untoasted rice: add the wine and stock right after the onion. The toasted batch was a little darker; tasters could hardly tell them apart.