Ropa vieja

Sear the skirt steak pieces in the deep pot used for braising, covered to stop splatter; crowding is fine since the meat is braised and shredded later. Sear about five minutes, then add remaining pieces as the meat shrinks.

Prepare the peppers: hold upright, cut the flesh off around the core, and remove the seeds and core in one piece.

Cut up an onion; peel off any outer layers with surface mold and rinse.

Variation: put the shredded stew in a casserole dish or cast iron pan, top with boxed cornbread mix and bake as a tamale pie.

When the beef is browned, about five more minutes, move it to a plate.

Add the peppers and onions with a little salt; their released moisture deglazes the browned bits from the pot. Cook a couple of minutes until a little more tender.

Combine chopped manzanilla olives, capers and raisins in a bowl.

Add half a 28-ounce can of crushed tomatoes, the olives, capers and raisins and a couple cups of low-sodium chicken broth.

Return the beef with its dripped juices; bring to a simmer with the meat mostly submerged.

Cover with the lid slightly cracked so the liquid reduces, turn down to a bare simmer and cook 2 to 3 hours, checking after two, until the meat is fork-shreddable but not overcooked.

Shred the beef with a couple of forks into the thickened sauce. Taste for seasoning.

Serve with beans, braised kale, rice or fried plantains.