Seared flank steak with a mojo-chimichurri dressing

Mix two tablespoons of kosher salt with one teaspoon of white sugar, coat the flank lightly on all sides, set on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate one to 24 hours.

For a whole flank, preheat the grill on high 10 to 15 minutes, drop to medium high, lay the steak on the diagonal, rotate 90 degrees after about three minutes for a crosshatch, repeat on the other side and grill to about 125F at the thickest point.

For chunks, cook the same way in a pan until deeply browned, then rest 10 minutes.

Whisk a third of a cup of extra virgin olive oil with the juice of one orange and one lime, one to four crushed cloves of garlic, half a teaspoon of chopped oregano, a quarter cup of chopped cilantro or parsley and a couple of sliced scallion greens.

Add a splash or two of red wine vinegar, a teaspoon of whole cumin seeds, kosher salt, black pepper, about two teaspoons of honey and optional red chili flake.

Whisk until well emulsified, adding more fruit juice or vinegar if it is too oily and more oil if it is too watery.

Slice the rested steak thinly and across the grain with a long thin carving knife.

Dress, garnish with more thinly sliced scallions, flaky finishing salt and a few twists of pepper.