Sichuan MSG noodles

Dissolve half a teaspoon sodium carbonate or baked baking soda in 90 g water.

Drizzle it bit by bit into bread or noodle flour; knead, or mix in a stand mixer on speed two for eight minutes.

Press together, cover and rest half an hour.

Cut into two pieces; pass each through the pasta maker at the widest setting, fold like a letter and repeat, six times total.

Pass through at the second widest, then the third widest setting; cut on the narrow cutter (2 mm) and flour thoroughly.

In the serving bowl combine 3/4 tsp MSG, 1/2 tsp sugar, 1 tsp light soy sauce, 1 tbsp chili oil, 1 tbsp ya cai and about 1 tbsp sliced scallions.

Boil 150 g fresh noodles until just past al dente, about one minute; strain and add straight to the bowl.

Mix immediately, adding a touch of water if the noodles stick. Traditionally eaten with a small bowl of pork bone and kelp soup.