Smoked beef chuck on a gas grill, served as a sandwich

Soak about two pounds of hickory wood chips; overnight soaking is unnecessary and slows the smoke.

Set the far left burner to medium-low, remove the left grate, and set the smoker box with a few handfuls of soaked chips on the heat diffuser; close the lid and preheat and smoke 20 minutes.

Season the chuck roasts on all sides with as much kosher salt as will stick, then cake with coarse black pepper.

Load the meat on the opposite side with no heat under it, top up the chips, close the lid and turn the burner under the chips to low.

Smoke three to four hours holding the grill at 250 to 275F, adding a round of chips every 30 to 45 minutes and checking every half hour so the chips do not catch fire.

After three rounds of chips, flip the meat and continue for three more rounds.

Around hour four, remove when the internal temperature is about 145 to 150F.

Wrap each piece in foil three times to seal and return to the grill.

Turn the heat to low and cook at 225F without chips for another three to four hours.

After about three and a half hours, check for an internal temperature of 205 to 210F and a soft but not mushy feel.

Unwrap, drain and save the drippings from the foil, and cook the beef in the oven 30 minutes to dry and set the bark.

Tent with foil and rest about 20 minutes.

Slice thick to serve as is, or cut into large cubes.

For a sandwich, toss the cubes gently in a bowl with the saved fat and drippings, stack on a toasted potato roll, add a little barbecue sauce and creamy slaw.