Smoked beef ribs, trimmed against untrimmed

Trim the fat and silver skin off one big and one small rack; leave the other two intact.

Season the top side with brisket rub; do not season the membrane-covered underside.

Smoke at about 200 with an open flame in the firebox for the first couple of hours.

Raise to about 250 for the next hour or two.

Then 275 to 285 until finished, about 8 to 10 hours in all.

At about five and a half hours, check for burning, internal temperature and bark; swap rack positions so the comparison is fair.

At nine hours, wrap the ribs in butcher paper with no added tallow.

Finish cooking and rest overnight; the untrimmed ribs came off about 20 minutes earlier.

Slice between the bones and serve at about 140 degrees.