Smoked beef short ribs

Trim the silver skin off the top with a trimming knife, sliding the blade in and working it across rather than lifting and cutting underneath, so little meat is lost; leave the fat and the membrane on the back.

Salt the top and edges fairly heavily; do not season the back.

Let the salt sit 10 to 15 minutes, then sprinkle a low- or no-sugar beef rub liberally over the top.

Put the ribs on the smoker at 275 with clean smoke, bones down on the lower rack if one rack runs hotter; finish closer to 300 or hold 275 throughout.

Leave about three hours before opening to check.

At about five and a half hours, turn the ribs end for end so the side toward the fire does not get darker than the other and the bark and tenderness stay even.

Once the bark has set, about 45 minutes later, spray with half water, half apple cider vinegar so the bark does not get too crusty, without spraying the seasoning off.

At just over 190 internal, wrap the ribs in two sheets of 12-inch butcher paper, not foil, for only the last 10 degrees, to soften the bark without breaking the membrane.

Cook to about 200 internal, until a probe goes in like softened butter.

Rest wrapped in a styrofoam cooler about 30 minutes.

Unwrap, cut between the bones from the membrane side, and serve.