Smoked brisket on a pellet grill

Trim the brisket, preferably with a sharp straight-edge slicer.

Season the meat side with salt and pepper, then seasoned salt; repeat on the fat side, the presentation side.

Remove the direct-heat grate and put a wood split in the tray over the fire pot; cover it so it burns with small, gentle flames.

Start the pellet grill nice and low at 200 degrees to maximise smoke flavour early.

Put the brisket on while the grill is still heating, fat side up on this top-down cooker (fat side down on a pellet grill with only a bottom rack), for the most smoke, bark and smoke ring.

Cook at 200 for the first two hours, then 225, then 250; go to 275, or 300 if still not ready to wrap, only where the pit's radiant heat allows.

At two hours raise to 225 and add another wood split.

At about five hours raise to 250; the fat is starting to render and the internal temperature is 167, in the stall.

Insert a probe in the bottom of the flat, in the middle every way, which is about the coolest spot.

Wrap at around 180F internal, once the bark is dark, the fat is rendered and the brisket has shrunk from sweating out water; this one was about 184.

Wrap tightly in butcher paper with a little tallow, rolling so it ends fat side up and squishing in the ends and sides.

Cook to about 208 in the flat (205 to 210) and about 200 in the point, with the flat closer to the heat source.

Pull it out and cool at room temperature to about 155 to 160, then hold in a warming oven at 145 for about 12 hours.

Separate the point from the flat; cut the point into burnt ends and slice the flat.