Smoked brisket, wrapped at the stall against wrapped past the stall

Trim the briskets as for a restaurant and season with kosher salt and 16-mesh black pepper, 50-50 by volume.

Put the briskets on the smoker, starting at 200 degrees, and run the fire for several hours until a nice bark forms.

When the internal temperature plateaus (the stall), confirm with an instant-read thermometer and wrap the first brisket in butcher paper with a little tallow (transcribed 'tile').

Variation: leave the second brisket unwrapped past the stall until it reads 180 to 185 throughout, with dark bark, well rendered soft fat and visible shrinkage, then wrap it the same way.

Cook both to about 203 and until the probe slides in feeling really soft.

Let cool to about 165, then rest overnight in a warmer at 145.

Unwrap and slice.