Smoked chili lime garlic chicken with Kewpie

Lay the chicken breast side down and cut up both sides of the backbone with kitchen shears; save the backbone for stock. Flip breast side up and press down on the breastbone until it cracks and lies flat.

Dry brine with kosher salt, about half a teaspoon per pound of bird: a little on the inside, most of it on the skin side.

Set the chicken on a rack, tuck the wings behind, and refrigerate uncovered for four hours up to overnight; the salt pulls moisture out, it reabsorbs, and the skin improves.

In a bowl mix about a third of a cup of Kewpie mayo, about five tablespoons of garlic paste, about a teaspoon of black pepper, chipotle chili powder, lime zest and the juice of half the limes; no salt.

Wipe the chicken dry so the mixture sticks, then spread it over the bottom and the top, into the cracks and leg folds; optionally massage more under the skin with your fingers without tearing it. Tuck the wings back under.

Put the chicken in the middle of the smoker for about a couple of hours.

Take it off when it reads between 153 and 154.

Tent loosely with foil and rest 10 to 15 minutes.

Cut off the legs and wings and cut the breasts in half to serve.

Variation: Without a smoker, prepare the chicken the same way and cook it in the oven at 275 degrees on a rack over a baking sheet; a teaspoon of liquid smoke can go into the Kewpie mixture.