Spaghetti carbonara

Remove the skin from the guanciale and trim some of the pepper off the outside.

Cut the guanciale so each piece carries fat, meat, fat, then cut into strips or into chunks.

Choose a pan that fits on top of the pot the pasta boils in, or a bowl that fits in the pot.

Cook the guanciale over very low heat with no oil for six to seven minutes until it sweats and the fat turns to oil, turning it so it cooks evenly.

Separate four egg yolks from four eggs and beat them.

Remove the guanciale to a plate; it crisps as it rests.

Add half the rendered guanciale oil to the eggs and mix; keep the other half in the pan.

Add the pecorino to the egg mixture and mix to a thick cream, then add the pepper.

Boil the spaghetti in a large pot with less water than usual and no salt, stirring for the first five minutes.

At 10 minutes, take out a full mug of starchy pasta water.

Add the pasta water to the egg mix a little at a time, mixing gently until it turns creamy.

Put the pan back on the stove over low heat, add the al dente pasta to the guanciale oil and toss, adding pasta water as it dries out.

Set the pan over the steaming pot to keep it warm, then add the egg mixture and mix.

Put some spaghetti into the egg bowl to pick up the remaining cream and return it to the pan. Add more pepper.

Toss to combine and emulsify, then add half the guanciale.

Finish with a handful of pecorino romano on top and mix.

Plate with as much cream as possible over the top, more pecorino, and the reserved guanciale on top.