Squab broil-roasted in wine with a giant straw potato galette and cherry tomatoes in butter and herbs

Cut off the feet, remove the backbone with scissors, turn the bird flesh side up and pound the breasts with the fists to tenderize.

Fold the wings akimbo behind the back. Season both sides with salt and pepper.

Marinade: minced shallot, dried tarragon, dry white vermouth and olive oil over the bird; cover and marinate three or four hours, turning and basting.

Scrape off the marinade and dry the bird, keeping the marinade. Brush with melted butter, skin side down in the pan.

Broil 5 minutes on the first side, flip skin side up and broil 5 minutes more, basting with the melted butter.

Pour off some of the cooking fat and juices and return the squab to the same pan.

Season the skin lightly, add the garlic cloves, pour in about half a cup of Madeira and grate Swiss cheese over.

Roast at 400F, basting every six minutes; the recipe says 30 to 40 minutes for three hens, aim for about 130F inside for medium rare to medium.

Peel the baking potatoes and hold them in a bowl of cold water.

The single squab was done in about 12 minutes.

Stir the quartered mushrooms into the pan and return it to the oven 15 to 20 minutes without the squab; keep the squab warm in a turned-off oven with the door ajar.

Cut the potatoes to fit and slice them in the food processor's slicer; pat dry in a towel rather than soaking, so the starch stays and the galette holds together.

Coat the base of a large non-stick pan with clarified butter and heat very hot but not browning; lay in about a centimetre of potatoes, season, spoon over clarified butter and press down firmly with a spatula.

Press down and shake the pan frequently; two to three minutes after browning starts, turn the heat down, cover and cook on moderate heat 6 to 8 minutes.

Turn the galette over using a flat guard, slide it back into the pan and brown the second side; turn off the heat and keep warm.

Lift out half the garlic and the mushrooms with a slotted spoon.

Finishing sauce: half a cup of Madeira, half a cup of chicken stock and the reserved marinade into the roasting pan; bring to a boil and scrape up the bits from the sides and bottom.

Pour the sauce through a sieve into a saucepan, rubbing the garlic through; boil to concentrate.

Tomatoes prepared ahead: dropped into boiling water two to three seconds, then skinned; kept in the fridge.

Melt about a tablespoon of butter; when bubbling add the tomatoes, chopped herbs, salt and white pepper, shake and warm through, then turn off the heat.

Optionally finish the sauce with enrichment butter once it has boiled and thickened.

Plate: galette cut slightly bigger than the squab, squab on top, mushrooms and garlic around, then the tomatoes; sprinkle parsley and pour on the sauce.