Stovetop-started roast chicken with gravy and roasted vegetable side

Melt the butter in a small pot and boil until the milk solids clump golden brown and the bubbling calms; strain through a paper towel.

Cut out the wishbone by following it with the knife from the neck opening and pulling it out with the fingers.

Set the chicken in a wide oven-safe pan, tuck the wingtips under, rub clarified butter over the skin; season the bottom and top heavily with pepper and salt.

Put a cut shallot or onion chunk and thyme and sage in the cavity; tie the legs with twine and score the legs a couple of times to the bone.

Start the chicken on the stovetop over moderate heat, breast up, 10 to 15 minutes; turn down if anything smells burnt.

Roast at 400F, 200C, convection if available, almost an hour, basting a few times in its own fat if wanted.

Peel and cube the sweet potatoes one slice at a time; cut carrots into thick rounds; halve trimmed Brussels sprouts.

Steam the vegetables in a lidded wide pan with just enough water to cover the bottom, stirring periodically, until about halfway to fork-tender.

Shock under running cold water in the pan until nothing feels hot; drain with the lid.

Add celery and chopped fresh thyme and sage; spread in a thin layer on an oven-safe tray, pour on clarified butter, season heavily with pepper and salt and toss.

Take the chicken out when the thickest part of the breast reads 155F, 68C; release it with a spatula and rest.

Roast the vegetables at the oven's maximum temperature, stirring a few times and adding butter or oil if dry, until crispy, about 45 minutes.

Over heat, stir flour into the chicken fat in the roasting pan to a thick paste, loosen with a little oil, and brown the roux gently a few minutes.

Stir in chicken broth a little at a time, scraping up the browned bits; add the resting juices; simmer to thicken, adding more stock as it evaporates; season with a lot of pepper and a little salt.

Halve a pomegranate and tap out the seeds with a heavy implement.

Set the chicken in the middle of the vegetables and reheat in the oven about 10 minutes; can hold with the oven off or very low for an hour or two.

Adjust the gravy: reduce if thin, add broth or water if thick; strain optional.

Scatter pomegranate seeds and fresh thyme leaves over the vegetables; carve at the table.