Tamagoyaki (Japanese rolled omelette)

In a measuring cup or spouted bowl, break up three large eggs. Add a tablespoon of water, half a tablespoon of sugar, a teaspoon of usukuchi soy sauce and a pinch of salt.

Whisk gently with chopsticks in a zigzag motion without incorporating too much air.

Heat the tamagoyaki pan over medium heat and apply a thin layer of oil with a brush or paper towel. Test with a drop of egg: when it sizzles, the pan is ready.

Pour in a thin layer of egg, pop any air bubbles and tilt to spread evenly. When the surface is no longer runny, roll the egg into a log from the far side with chopsticks or a spatula.

Push the roll to the far side, lightly grease the front, pour in another thin layer and lift the roll so egg runs underneath; tilt to spread. When set, roll again. Repeat until the egg mixture is used up.

Press the omelette against the sides of the pan to shape a rectangular block.

Wrap in a bamboo sushi mat while hot and let stand five minutes, so residual heat finishes the egg and it cools slightly.

Variation: in a round medium frying pan, grease well (more oil for carbon steel) and do the sizzle test. Pour a thin layer, tilt, pop bubbles; when no longer runny, fold the left and right sides to the centre to make a rectangle, then roll into a log. Repeat a few more times.

To serve, cut in half crosswise, then cut each half into thirds.