Thai beef satay with peanut sauce and ajat cucumber pickle

Grind the toasted coriander and cumin seeds with black pepper to a powder in a mortar and pestle.

Pound in the lemongrass, chopped galangal and fresh turmeric until quite fine.

Add cinnamon, brown sugar, a little salt and vinegar, then coconut milk; swirl to combine.

Chill the top sirloin in the freezer about 30 minutes. Find the grain; cut strips about an inch wide, turn and slice a quarter inch thick against the grain into bite-sized pieces, trimming connective tissue.

Pour the marinade over the beef and massage with gloved hands so every piece is coated; marinate ideally a day ahead, at least an hour.

Peanut sauce: bring a little coconut milk to a boil, add the red curry paste and stir out the lumps over medium heat; cook and reduce until the red oil separates and the paste fries in it.

Add the rest of the coconut milk and the coarsely ground peanuts; season with palm sugar, tamarind and a touch of fish sauce, gently, adjusting later.

Simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 to 10 minutes until thick.

Skewer the beef straight through, not laced, three pieces per skewer, with the last piece covering the tip; lay flat in one layer.

Lay a double layer of foil on the grill where the skewer handles rest. Brush one side of the skewers with coconut milk, place that side down, and brush the tops.

Grill on high heat, lid open, a couple of minutes per side for grill marks.

Serve the peanut sauce in a shallow plate for dipping, with the ajat and toast.

Ajat: cook vinegar, sugar and a little salt until the sugar dissolves; cool and pour over cucumber, chilies and shallots no more than 10 minutes before serving.