Thai roast chicken with gravy

Grind black and white peppercorns, then garlic, then cilantro roots to a fine paste; grind in chopped palm sugar and a little salt until the sugar dissolves. A blender also works.

Stir in fish sauce, a little black soy sauce for colour, and some water.

Spatchcock the chicken: cut out the spine with scissors, cutting around the thigh bone; keep the spine for stock.

Slit the cartilage at the breastbone and press the chicken open flat; trim off the large fatty bits.

Loosen the skin over the breast and thighs to make pockets, push marinade underneath and massage it in; pour the rest over and rub all over.

Marinate 30 minutes, redistributing the marinade halfway through.

Cover the spine (rump removed) with water and simmer 20 to 30 minutes for a quick stock.

Smash lemongrass with the back of the knife and lay it in a quarter sheet pan with galangal, ginger, torn lime leaves and chopped shallots; pour some water over the herb bed.

Lay the chicken on the herb bed and brush the skin with oil.

Roast, watching the pan; when the liquid dries up and the bits begin to brown, deglaze with a little water so they do not burn.

Move the herbs to the bottom of the serving plate under the chicken.

Remove the spine and skim scum and fat from the stock; add the pan juices and the leftover marinade.

Bring to a boil to cook off the raw marinade, skim, taste and reduce if thin.

Add any resting juices from under the chicken and coconut milk to taste.

Dissolve cornstarch in just enough water, add half, and return to a boil to reach full thickening; adjust.

Darken with black soy sauce and finish with a little squeeze of lime.

Carve the chicken and serve with the gravy.