Thai sticky rice

Wash the rice, swishing vigorously, several times until the water runs relatively clear, to remove the excess starch from milling.

Soak-and-steam methods: soak in room-temperature or cold water at least 3 hours, preferably 4, up to 12 hours; refrigerate if soaking 8 to 12 hours. Long-soaked rice is brittle, so handle gently.

Method 1, bamboo cone: soak the cone in water about 10 minutes. Put about one and a half inches of water in the pot so the boiling water does not touch the cone.

Once the water is boiling vigorously, set the cone of soaked rice on top, cover, and steam about 25 minutes total, flipping the rice halfway through, then about 10 more minutes after the flip.

Loosen the rice and roll it onto a plate. Soak the cone in water immediately so the starch does not dry onto it.

Method 2, steaming rack: line the rack with a soaked natural-fibre cloth such as muslin. Place a shot glass in the middle, pile the rice around it and remove the glass (donut trick) so it cooks more evenly and faster; leave space around the edges for steam.

Steam about 25 minutes, 30 if doing a lot; no flipping needed with the donut.

Method 3, metal sieve: a little water in the pot, rice in a metal sieve with a divot in the middle, covered, steamed the same way on the stove.

Variation: extra soft rice (method 4): pour just-boiled water over soaked, drained rice, steep about 10 minutes, drain, and steam by any method above. Stays soft at room temperature.

Variation: steamed bowl, no soak (method 5): wash and drain the rice very well, shaking off all water; add water at one part rice to two thirds water in a bowl; set in a steamer over boiling water, covered, and steam 25 to 30 minutes.

Variation: rice cooker (method 6): washed, very well drained rice at the same ratio; do not use the pot's sweet rice line (meant for Japanese short grain); cook on the sweet rice function, 35 to 40 minutes for that amount. A brown rice function may work better on other cookers.

Variation: microwave (method 7): soak washed rice in hot water 15 minutes, drain very well, add fresh water at one part rice to two thirds water, cover with a plate.

In a 900 watt microwave cook 3 minutes, stir, 2 minutes, stir, then 1 minute; in the 1,100 watt machine here, 2 minutes, stir, 2 minutes, fold the bottom to the top, then about one more minute; let it rest in its own heat a few minutes.