Thai-style shrimp and pork shumai (khanom jeeb) with vinegary chili soy dipping sauce

Cut some of the shrimp into small pieces and set aside; grind the rest in a food processor until no big chunks remain, not to a complete puree.

Rinse the food processor with cold water first, not hot, or the meat cooks onto it.

Pound garlic and white peppercorns to a very fine paste and add to the ground pork and ground shrimp.

Season with soy sauce, fish sauce, a little toasted sesame oil and a little sugar; add an egg and cornstarch.

Mix by hand in gloves until the runny mixture firms up, holds its shape and becomes sticky and smooth.

Stir in the cut shrimp pieces, diced jicama and green onions.

Cut the corners off the wonton wrappers. Line the steamer rack with banana leaf, or oil it.

Put about a tablespoon of filling on a wrapper, close it in the other hand so pleats form, and flatten the bottom; set on the rack not touching, since they puff up.

Top each with carrot brunoise and steam over boiling water for 10 minutes.

Mix chopped chilies, Thai soy sauce, dark soy sauce, white vinegar and a little sugar; stir until the sugar dissolves and let the chili infuse.

As soon as they come out, brush generously with garlic oil, using green onion roots if there is no brush; sprinkle with crispy fried garlic and serve with the dipping sauce.