Tur-turkey-key (a deboned roast turkey inserted into a second turkey)

Debone the smaller turkey: shallow cuts from the spine, under the thigh and breast, round the carcass, then separate the carcass from the thin skin between the breasts. Keep the carcass for stock.

Make shallow cuts near the thick top of the breast to spread the meat more evenly; remove the wings for stock; score the breast meat so it seasons more deeply.

Season the interior with kosher salt and black pepper.

Remove the thigh bones: scrape the meat down the bone, separate at the joint and run the knife between. Keep the bones for stock.

Roll and tie the turkey into a long cylinder, then flip it and tie the legs.

Dry brine: coat the outside heavily with kosher salt and a little pepper and refrigerate uncovered overnight.

Lay the trimmings on a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet, drizzle with vegetable oil and roast at 400F for 30 to 45 minutes until deeply golden brown.

Put the roasted trimmings in the tallest, narrowest stockpot (less evaporation, less topping up) with celery, carrots, the halved garlic head, the quartered onion, rosemary, thyme, parsley, peppercorns and two bay leaves.

Bring to a bare simmer, partially cover and simmer 4 to 24 hours.

Roast the dry-brined bird at 400F until the skin is glassy crisp and the thickest part of the breast registers 155F; time depends on the bird and the oven.

Align it with the receiving turkey, snip off the strings, oil it with vegetable oil and push it into the cavity, using shoe horns to help.

The smaller turkey is precooked because raw it would take so long to cook that the outer turkey would be destroyed; the inner turkey still ends up dry.