Turkey porchetta with pan gravy

Turn the breast to the thinner side; with a sharp thin knife make a slightly angled cut into the thickest part, pulling and rolling the meat away as you slice; make smaller cuts wherever it is thick, on both sides, to open it out for maximum surface area.

Season generously with kosher salt and coarsely ground black pepper, then chili flakes.

Spread a large amount of crushed garlic in a fairly even layer, then grate over the zest of an orange and lemon.

Toast fennel seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for a couple of minutes until aromatic, crush them briefly in a mortar, and sprinkle over.

Add plenty of freshly chopped rosemary, minced fine.

Gather the meat back together with the seam at the bottom.

Tie with four lengths of kitchen twine: slide one under about three inches from the end, twist it through three or four times, cinch tight and knot; trim. Do the two center ties first, then the two at the ends.

Optionally pull the skin down tight wherever it has cinched up.

Put diced celery, carrots and onions in the bottom of a roasting pan, set the rack in, and place the turkey on top.

Pat the skin dry with a paper towel, brush off loose rosemary, and season the top with more salt.

Roast in the upper center of a 475 degree oven for exactly 30 minutes.

Lower the heat to 300 and cook about 45 minutes more, until the internal temperature reaches 145 to 150.

Transfer to a plate, cover very loosely with foil, and rest at least 15 to 20 minutes.

For the gravy, put the roasted vegetable bits in a saucepan with melted butter over medium heat, add flour and cook, stirring, two or three minutes.

Whisk in cold chicken or turkey broth, raise the heat to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until it boils; thin with more broth or reduce to thicken; taste for seasoning and strain if you like.

Slice the porchetta and serve on mustard greens with roasted potatoes, ladling over a little gravy and finishing with a big pinch of chili flakes.