Yule log

Separate seven eggs, keeping the seven whites and seven yolks apart. Heat the oven to 350F and line a half baking sheet with parchment paper.

Whisk the flour, cocoa powder and salt together in a bowl.

Beat the seven yolks on medium until doubled in volume and velvety, then add 150 g sugar and beat about two minutes until pale.

Mix the flour mixture into the yolks on low, scrape down, and set aside.

Beat the egg whites on medium until frothy, then add 50 g granulated sugar slowly and beat about four minutes to stiff glossy peaks that stick to the whisk.

Fold the meringue into the chocolate base in three batches, sacrificing the first to lighten it; scrape the bottom, come up and cut down until no streaks remain.

Transfer the batter to the prepared baking sheet and smooth it into a thin layer with an offset spatula, since it will not self-level.

Bake at 350F about 20 minutes, until the centre springs back when touched.

For the mushrooms, measure six tablespoons of extra fine sugar and separate two egg whites.

Beat the two egg whites with an eighth of a teaspoon of cream of tartar on medium high until frothy and doubled.

Add the sugar slowly and beat about five minutes close to high until stiff and glossy. Heat the oven to 200F.

Fill a piping bag fitted with a round 1A tip, avoiding air bubbles.

Pipe the mushrooms in two parts: for a stem press and draw the tip up into a column; for a cap hover half an inch above the parchment, squeeze, then stop and pull up with a swirl.

Tap the peaks down with a dampened finger and tap a smidgen of cocoa powder onto the bases and caps.

Bake the mushrooms at 200F for two hours, low and slow, so they stay white and go crisp through.

Lay a smooth kitchen towel flat and sift powdered sugar over it so the cake will not stick or tear.

Flip the hot cake onto the sugared towel, peel off the paper and roll it from the long side while soft, adding a little more powdered sugar as you go; do not roll so tight that the cake compresses.

Cool the rolled cake on a wire rack a full hour so the steam escapes.

Snip the tips off the mushroom stems with scissors, melt two ounces of semi-sweet chocolate, and glue the caps to the stems with it.

Whip 300 ml cold cream with a third of a cup of powdered sugar and a half teaspoon of vanilla, finishing by hand off the machine.

Unroll the cake slowly, spread the whipped cream to the edges in an even layer, and roll it back up.

Chill the rolled cake in the fridge to firm up.

Mix 284 g very soft butter with 48 g cocoa powder, then 340 g confectioner's sugar, a quarter teaspoon of salt and two to three tablespoons of cream, low and slow so no air whips in.

Dip fresh rosemary and cranberries in cooled simple syrup, let them drain sticky, then toss them in sugar and set them on a sheet to dry and crystallize.

Trim the front edge of the log, then cut a piece about three inches long at an angle for the branch.

Set the log on a platter with the cut piece against the side as a branch.

Slather the frosting over the cake a bit at a time and smooth it with a spatula.

Drag a fork down the frosting in slightly curved lines for bark, cleaning the fork as you go.

Add the meringue mushrooms, the sugared rosemary and the sugared cranberries.

Finish with the lightest dusting of powdered sugar.