Yunnan pounded mashed potato

Wash the potatoes and remove any sprouts. Steam over rapidly bubbling water until cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Let cool until no longer hot to the touch, then peel by hand. Peeling after steaming keeps them from absorbing too much moisture.

Pound in a mortar, one potato at a time, for 10 to 15 minutes until the bits are almost all broken down into a silky, uniform, elastic mass; stop after about five for a texture closer to western mash.

Season with salt, MSG and Sichuan peppercorn powder and mix in. A sprinkle of anise powder is optional.

Mince the garlic, slice the chili, and cut the green garlic and cilantro.

Add the herbs and pound briefly to mix.