Zereshk polo (saffron and barberry rice)

Wash 400 g rice in plenty of room temperature water about 3 times, until the water stops going cloudy, to remove the starch so it does not clump; soak in clean water 10 minutes.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil, add 2 tsp salt and the soaked rice; boil like pasta until about 70% cooked, grains doubled with a slightly uncooked core, about 6 minutes, checking every minute.

Drain and cool the rice under cold water. Put 2 tbsp vegetable oil in the pot, add the drained rice and shape it into a cone with a spatula; pour over a little more oil and poke steam vents with a spoon or spatula handle.

Cover and heat on medium until steam develops, a few minutes; turn to low, wrap the lid in a clean kitchen towel and steam 15 to 20 minutes until cooked through but not mushy. Fluff with a fork.

Grind about 20 threads (0.2 g) saffron with a small pinch of salt in a mortar to a fine powder; dissolve in a few tablespoons of hot water.

Pour the saffron liquid over about a cup of the cooked rice in a mixing bowl and fluff with a fork until evenly colored.

Pick over half a cup of dried barberries, wash in water, drain, and soak in fresh water about 10 minutes until plump; drain and pick over again.

Melt about 1 tbsp butter in a pan over medium heat; add the barberries, 1 tbsp sugar and a couple tablespoons of liquid; cook a few minutes until most of the liquid evaporates and the berries are plump and jammy.

Mix part of the cooked berries into some of the saffron rice.

Break up the crispy rice from the bottom of the pot (tahdig) into pieces to serve.

Plate a pile of white rice, top with about 10% as much saffron rice and less again of the barberry rice; garnish with sliced pistachio if wanted.