Coral fish (blooming fish) in sweet and sour sauce

Fillet the fish by cutting at the tail and sliding a thin knife or cleaver along the spine toward the head; alternatively have the fishmonger fillet and debone it.

Cut incisions at about a 20 degree angle, under a quarter inch apart, from the flesh down to the skin without slicing through, across the whole fillet.

Cut each flap into thin strips, starting from the base where the flesh meets the skin, without tearing; this took about 30 minutes.

Rinse briefly in a bath of water and press dry with a towel.

Heat a wok full of oil to 350 degrees.

Lay the fillets in a tray with the cooking wine and salt, making sure the marinade touches every strip; leave about 5 minutes.

Mix cornstarch and potato starch 1 to 2 and push it gently into every strip.

Hold the fish at both ends and lower it slowly just above the oil so the strips crisp before touching the bottom; then drop it in and let the strips bloom.

Fry until light golden brown, rest on a rack, and repeat with the other fillet; fry the head and tail too.

Work quickly on the sauce so the fish does not go soggy.

In a medium saucepan combine the ketchup, white vinegar, sugar and kosher salt, stirring until it starts to reduce; once bubbling a while, add the water to dilute.

Bring back to temperature, add the cornstarch slurry to thicken, then the neutral oil for a glossy sheen.

Plate fast: fillets side by side with the pattern facing up, the tail at one end and the head at the other.

Pour the sauce over, into every crevice; it should be very thin and barely cling. Garnish with a few parsley leaves.