Dahi chicken (yogurt chicken curry)

Blend the garlic and ginger with a few tablespoons of water to a smooth paste.

In a pan on very low heat, dry roast the black peppercorns, black cardamom, green cardamoms and cloves until fragrant, without burning; take off the heat as soon as the aroma comes.

Transfer to a spice grinder with a sprinkle of salt, discard the cardamom skins, and grind to a powder.

Heat ghee with a little oil on medium heat; when hot but not smoking add the bay leaf, then the onions with a sprinkle of salt.

Stir on medium heat until the onions are soft but have taken no colour; do not let them turn golden.

Add the ginger garlic paste and fry on medium-high heat about two minutes.

Add the bone-in chicken and stir on high heat until most of the released liquid has dried out.

Stir the chili powder and about a fourth of a cup of water into the yogurt until smooth, so the milk solids do not separate.

Turn off the heat (or take the pan off an electric burner) and add the yogurt a few spoonfuls at a time, mixing well after each.

Turn the heat back on and stir constantly on medium until it comes up to a boil, or the yogurt will split.

Add salt, two dried red chilies and two whole green chilies; cook on medium-high about five minutes, stirring now and then.

Add about a teaspoon of sugar and cook on low heat 15 minutes.

Stir, add about 3/4 cup hot water and the spice powder.

Cook on low heat 10 more minutes or until the chicken is tender.

Finish with coriander leaves and dried mint; serve with naan, roti, paratha or rice.