Frijoles charros (cowboy beans) in an electric pressure cooker

Cut the bacon in about one-inch pieces, break apart into the electric pressure cooker and saute until rendered with a little colour, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Chop the onion, mince the garlic and dice the jalapenos, leaving the seeds and ribs in for heat.

If the bacon is lean, add some oil; add the onion, coat in the fat and cook until golden.

Add the garlic and jalapeno and cook about a minute, just until the garlic smells, without browning it.

Pick over the beans for pebbles or bits of wood.

Add the undrained fire roasted tomatoes and cook a couple more minutes, scraping up the fond with the tomato juice.

Add the beans, 6 cups water and 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal salt (1 teaspoon table salt).

Lock the lid, set the valve to sealing and pressure cook one hour, then let the pressure release naturally.

Taste and add the appropriate amount of salt; beans often need a little more salt the next day.

The broth is lightly thickened, right for serving in a bowl; to spoon onto tacos, blend a cup or so (up to two cups) of the beans smooth and return to the pot.

Coarsely chop about a cup of cilantro with its stems; stir about three quarters into the warm beans just before serving and scatter the rest over the top.